book: encyclopedia of sewing techniques
I consider myself to be a proficient seamstress, not advanced thats for sure - but proficient, I can tackle any project and get it mostly right most of the time - I can usually understand what is needed but I don’t tackle projects that are beyond me - I know my limitations but sometimes I like to challenge myself and push myself to learn something new.
My sewing machine has been a good old work horse 30 years old or so… It was given to me after my grandmother died. Its an Elna and has a few basic stitches, very heavy - it doesn’t move around much or vibrate when sewing - it sits solid on the table. It doesn’t break down … well once a spring snapped - but in 30 years thats pretty good going. I oil it and clean it regularly and in return it is capable and reliable.
But just recently I have begun to realise its limitations - it doesn’t do blanket stitch for example - and to put down the feed dogs I have to practically dismantle the whole machine and get out the screwdriver to remove the feed dogs (surely there is an easier way?) I am sure I can buy new fancy feet and accessories to extend it further, but the one time I did try that - I bought a walking foot for quilting - it didn’t quite fit. Well I suppose I am nitpicking here but the reason is simple my daughter wants her own sewing machine and I am thinking of giving her the sturdy reliable work horse and purchasing something slightly more advanced for myself. Having never purchased a sewing machine before I really need to do some serious research as well as making a list of what I really need and what would be useful as well as what I probably will never use.
I recently received a book which I have decided is going to be invaluable in helping me on this new journey to upgrade both my skills and my equipment. Encyclopedia of Sewing Machine Techniques
For those who already have the basics and want to know more - this is really a fabulous book, it covers a whole range of techniques with many different variables within each area. Most of the techniques are those in the creative realm, such as applique, cutwork, sewing braiding and doing fringeing, there is a section on heirloom techniques, which includes puffing, decorative hem stitching, lacemaking, monogramming, pintucks, ruching and ruffling etc. There is a big section of quilting and patchwork, and embroidery. After this creative/heirloom section comes a good sized section on basic techniques and includes bias binding, buttonholes, hemming, buttons, edge finishes, gathering, seam finishes and topstitching.
Each of these techniques has a page or two dedicated to them with additional pages for all the variations - for each technique there is an invaluable guide to sewing machine set up including stitch, foot, needles, thread, tension, feed dogs, etc and what materials are appropriate and any additional supplies. Images are clear photographic images in series with very good step-by-step instructions as well as a good explanation of what the technique is, its background and difficulty level and when it is should be used.
What this book does not do - it does not tell you what kind of machine to buy but it does give you a simple overview of the various possibilities when looking for a new machine. It also gives you a basic guide in how to care for your machine and how to get the most out of the machine you do have.
Each of the techniques give options with regards to presser feet - and how many there are out there that I did not even know existed - this book has opened a whole new world of possibilities for me with regards to making my sewing easier. Many of these techniques I probably will never do but I now know what I do want to do and what tools will make it easier for me. For example getting a freemotion foot for freestyle quilting seems like a good idea, and a button sew-on foot might make my life more fun and easier, I can’t believe I don’t already have a hemmer foot. There is an incredible complicated looking ruffler attachment, but what it can do - gathers and pleats can be stitched in intervals or continuously based on setting - wow! Something else new to me is the double wing needle - yes that rights two needles on the one shank enables elegant stitch patterns. And who else knew about the piping and braiding foot?
Well I could rave on and on even more - but I need to go and investigate my machine a little more and do some research. - Any tips welcome.
November 19th, 2007 at 7:55 am
Thanks for the book tip. As for a machine: I just upgraded to a Viking SE. It is probably more than you want but I just love it! It is a sewing and embroidery machine. What I especially like about it is that it has a sewing adviser and users manual loaded on the machine. I can also plug it directly into my computer for upgrades. I think that you probably would be happy with any modern machine…it is just so effortless next to an older machine (my other machine is 30+ and I converted it to a felting machine). Find a dealer and go and try out the machines and you’ll know what’s best for you after trying a bunch. Good luck!
November 19th, 2007 at 8:03 am
Wow, thanks for the review…that book looks great. I am in the same boat as you, using a sturdy old work horse machine but considering something new. It’s true there are probably so many things I could improve on with the proper tools and techniques!
November 19th, 2007 at 10:43 pm
Consider keeping your old machine and buying a modern version for fancy stitches. I have several oldies that produce a wonderful lockstitch, better than my newer Bernina. The old workhorses just churn along, are easy to maintain and rarely break down. For $700 or less, I also like my Singer Futura CE200 that has lots of fancy stitches and has an embroidery hookup to computers. The threading is a little picky (requires seating at the first junction) but once that is done right, it sews great. It seems like a good value for a machine that can transfer any image from any gif or jpeg into embroidery.
November 20th, 2007 at 1:56 am
We have two sewing machines, an old singer and a newish fancy-ish Elna. I mostly use the Elna now, because it has a zigzag stitch and other finishing stitches that I use a lot, but I do have a ruffling contraption for my Singer - they haven’t changed since forever, they operate on the up-down of the needle combined with a set of ratchet gears and built in feed - as well as the most amazing buttonhole contraption that manages to sew a custom fit button hole on my straight stitch Singer Featherweight. Also you can probably get a feed-dog cover plate if you don’t want to drop your feed dog. Mine is a slightly domed plate that you just screw over the throat plate that is there when you want to use it. I would use my old Singer most of the time, except that the electrical cord has a break in it somewhere, so it only runs if I hold it just right. :-(
The stitches that I use the most on the newer machine are zig zag, blanket, blind-hem (wow!) and, um… hmm. Oh, the stretch stitch - like the zigzag it has built in stretch, but it sews a straighter line. Looks like __/__/__/.
November 20th, 2007 at 7:58 am
I want that book!! It sounds fantastic.
On machines, I went through your current decision point about 6 years ago when my old hand me down workhorse went beyond repair. I bought the most basic Janome and I have been very happy with it. It does multiple stretch stitches (which I use a lot) and a dozen or so fancy stitches, it has a metal engine housing (hate that disposable plastic stuff) and no computer functions (which I didn’t want). It sews very nicely, it easy to thread and wind bobbins, never breaks down and only cost $300. I have a couple of friends with the exact same machine and they are similarly happy with it.
Over the last few years I have reflected on whether I made the right decision and if I had the choice again this is what I would consider.
The next model up from mine had two features which at the time I thought were a waste of space and I now realise would be wonderfully useful - the single touch needle up/needle down button (I never understood how many problems I had by commenting sewing with the needle in the incorrect position or how much time I spent lining the needle up) and the single touch double stitch button (which is much faster and neater than the back and forth at the beginning and end of each seam). These two extra features would have been and extra $100 and I really wish I had invested in them.
Now that I do some quilting I sometimes also wish I had a machine with a longer arm and stronger engine. My machine probably couldn’t handle quilting something really big (like a king size quilt) and the engine isn’t as strong as I would sometimes like when sewing heavy duty items (like leather or multiple layers of heavy felt). But to go up to a larger size machine is a much bigger expense - more than an extra $1000, and I don’t feel I quilt enough to justify the cost.
I’m not sure I would use a wider array of fancy stitches or embroidery functions etc - maybe I would if they were at my disposal, but I haven’t missed not having them. I do know I would probably need to read the manual every time I wanted to do something complicated and I’m a bit too lazy for that!
Good luck in choosing and I hope you’ll report back!
November 20th, 2007 at 10:23 pm
I too have an old Elna; the SU. The feed dogs don’t lower on mine, but it has a very simple plate that clicks in over the feed. I’m not sure why the available walking feet don’t work with the Elna…they just don’t!