Link.

Link.

My mother taught me to knit these mittens as a girl, and it wasn’t from a written pattern, but I was shown how in the same way that she knew how. So far as she knows, it is how her mother taught her. I don’t know how far back these mittens go, but it is a pattern that I have begun to teach my children.

Within the past couple of years, I have learned through a knitting course that when one knits in double knit, the strands should be carried loosely along the back to prevent the fabric from pulling in. I was never taught this, nor was my mother, and we always used our normal tension when making these mittens, and, yes, they did pull in. To compensate for this, however, we always added enough additional stitches after finishing the cuff, to compensate for the pull in.

Color choices can be a lot of fun with these mittens. My oldest daughter came up with a variation of the mitten by lining the like colors up to make stripes instead of a checked pattern she thought to use a variegated yarn as well. Possibilities are nearly endless.

Here are some color possibilities with solids & also variegated yarns. The light and dark solid checked patterns are more traditional than the others shown.

Trial and error are great teachers, and for sizing, it was how I learned. I was never told to use any specific size needles or yarn, although we always knit with worsted weight yarn. Make notes about your first mitten, and you will have a ‘pattern’ for making the second mitten in the set. Note: use compatible types of yarn together.

The cuffs should be cast onto 3 double pointed needles in a multiple of 3 for a k2, p1 rib. A wrist measurement and gauge check will give you a rough idea of the number of stitches needed. Work the cuff for the desired length (including any stripe(s) in the second color). Before adding the second strand, work an increase row. You will need to increase a stitch every 2 or 3 stitches, depending on how slender or wide a fit you want. You will need to end up with an odd number of stitches for the salt & pepper (checks) pattern or an even number for the striped pattern. Try to always hold the same color to the front as you knit.

After the increase round is complete, add the second color. Working in stockinette stitch, work around 1 light stitch, 1 dark stitch, etc… On the second round, I begin the thumb gusset. You will want to keep you pattern correct (whether checks or stripes) as you work around, making any adjustments at the increases (two light sts. together or two dark stitches together when necessary). On the following row, if working the check pattern, always put a light stitch over a dark or visa versa. If working stripes, always put a light stitch over a light stitch or a dark stitch over a dark stitch. Work gusset as follows:

Find the center 2 sts. of the first needle. You will work an increase on each side of these two stitches on the first round. Your increases will always stay the same number of stitches from the outside edge of that needle. Increase rounds are worked every other round, with a regular round knit in between. Once the gusset is high enough, there will usually be about the right number of stitches for the thumb to put on a holder (if in doubt, work an extra increase round before putting thumb stitches on a holder). Knit to gusset; place added stitches, plus the stitch on each side of the added stitches, on a stitch holder. Add 2 sts. to working needle; finish knitting round. Continue working in pattern until the mitten comes up to the top of the pinky finger.

Decreases generally are done at the center of each needle every other round, adjusting pattern as needed. When only a few stitches remain on each needle, cut the yarn leaving a 8” or so tail, pull the tail through to the inside and finish.

To finish the thumb, take stitches off holder and distribute on 3 double pointed needles. Pick up 2 or 3 stitches along gap at edge of mitten body as needed, keeping in mind keeping your pattern correct. Work in pattern until about 3/4 of the way up the thumbnail. Work a decrease at the center of each needle, every other round, adjusting the pattern as needed. When you only have 2 or 3 stitches on each needle, cut the yarn, leaving an 8” or so tail. Pull the tail through the stitches and to the inside and finish.

About the author: Linda Condon lives in Palmer Alaska she grew up in Northern Maine, where she learned to knit as a child from her mother. She seldom worked from commercial patterns; an influence on her knitting still today. She currently lives in Alaska with her family and has recently passed the TKGA Master Hand Knitting Course, levels 1-3.

If you would like to submit an article or tutorial please read the submission guidelines and email Kathreen at whipup[at]gmail.com. We are taking submissions for Traditions for June.

How to contact retailers that might want to carry your handmade products. LINK from sew betty.

Call for illustrators: Alabama Chanin is seeking an illustrator for our upcoming book: Alabama Studio Style. The illustration style should closely follow the style set forth in Alabama Stitch Book. LINK (thanks Ina for the link)

SWAP: Hand printed fabric swap - each person wanting to join in contacts each other person they’d like to swap with, and arranges to swap a 20 cm square swatch of handprinted fabric. When you’ve collected enough pieces, you can sew them together to make a blogger/printer quilt. LINK

On the 23rd of this month The Crafty Crow is going to be three months old! To celebrate…they are having a funny food contest! find out more LINK

And the winners of a set of four mixtape zines are: Laura, Heather, Meri and Deb Ferguson you will be contacted shortly by the mixtape girls.