How to make a Chefâ€™s Hat
Kids and adults and everyone in between will love wearing this chefâ€™s hat in the kitchen, it can be made in all kinds of fabric combinations and sizes and it is practical for keeping your hair out of the food too.
- Strip of fun fabric for band – approx 20 x 60cm / 8 x 25 inches
- Square of white fabric for top – approx 60 x 60cmÂ / 8 x 25 inches
- Sewing machine and thread
- Scissors, pins, pencil and measuring tape
Step 1: Making the band
- - Measure the chefâ€™s head circumference (approx 54-56 cm / 21-22 inches for child, or 60-64 cm / 24-25 inches for adult).
- - Cut the band fabric to this length and 20 cm / 8 inches wide. Press it in half lengthways with wrong sides together.
- - Open it back up and place the short ends right sides together, pin and sew. Then press this seam open.
- - Fold it back along the pressing line to form a ring with the wrong sides together. Put this aside.
Step 2. Making the top
- - Cut your square of fabric into a circle, to help with this fold your square of fabric on the diagonal – first in half, then quarters then eighths. Mark the corners as shown with a pencil and cut off these corners to form your circle.
- - Sew a line of stitches around the perimeter of the circle with a large loose straight stitch, donâ€™t backstitch at the beginning or end. Pull the threads gently to gather the stitches until the circle circumference is the same as the band.
Step 3. Putting the chefâ€™s hat together
- - Pin the raw edges of the band and the top of the hat together – rights sides facing. Adjust the gathers if you need it to be bigger or smaller to fit the band properly.
- - Sew together with a straight stitch, then sew the edges with a zigzag stitch to tidy the raw edges. And hey presto you are done!
This super simple quilt pattern uses a pack of pre-cut layer cakes and is perfect for boys or girls and with a few short cut methods you can make it in a weekend.
- 42 squares of 25 x 25 cm fabric / 10 inch square (pre-washed if you are worried colours might run) (use a pack of pre-cut layer cakes if you have one)
- Cotton batting (1.5 x 1.7 metres / 60 x 67 inches)
- Backing fabric (Feel free to recycle something from your linen closet that you don’t use very often)Â (1.5 x 1.7 metres / 60 x 67 inches)
- Neutral coloured cotton thread for sewing and quilting
- Masking tape
- Rotary cutter, cutting mat and quilt ruler (or scissors)
- Basting spray
- - Use 1/4 inch seam allowances throughout
- - Ensure your backing is 10 cm / 4 inches larger than your quilt top all the way around – don’t cut it until after your quilt top is finished.
- - Cut your batting to the same size as your quilt top – again after you have finished sewing it.
- - Only use basting spray in a well ventilated space and read the manufacturer instructions before using.
- - When machine quilting on your sewing machine – remember to take regular breaks and stretch your back.
- - If using all cotton you can wash this quilt in the washing machine.
Step 1. Sewing
- - Lay out your fabric squares and arrange into 6 rows of 7 squares, then sew the rows together. Press seams in one direction.
- - Pin your rows together, matching up your seams and sew your rows together. Press the entire quilt top.
- - Now measure it – and cut your batting 5 cm / 2 inches larger on all sides, then cut your quilt backing 10 cm / 4 inches larger on all sides.
Step 2. Basting the quilt
- - Lay your quilt backing right side down onto your surface in a well ventilated space, and tape down the corners with masking tape – ensuring it is evenly taught all around.
- - Lay your batting centred on top and lay your quilt top right side up centred on the top, tape down the backing and quilt top at one end.
- - Have your basting spray ready and roll or fold back your quilt top carefully from the non-taped end to the taped end. Spray your batting evenly all over, then carefully roll your quilt top back, a little bit at a time, smoothing as you go. Repeat for the batting+quilt top so that all three layers are stuck together with the basting spray.
- - Remove the masking tape and turn your quilt over and starting from the middle smooth the wrinkles out of the back. You are now ready to quilt.
Â Step 3. Quilting the quilt
- - Get comfortable, this is going to take about 2-3 hours to stipple quilt, ensure you have good lighting, music, a comfortable chair, plenty of filled bobbins and a new needle in your machine. Choose a big stipple design and practice with pencil and paper first.
- - Lower the feed dogs on your sewing machine and an use an embroidery foot.
- - Start stipple quilting in a random design from one corner of the quilt, gradually making your way over the entire surface, bunching or folding or rolling (whatever works for you) the quilt under your machine as you go. 2-3 hours later you have finished quilting your quilt. Take a break and have a cup of tea (or a slug of the stipple of your choice – you deserve it).
Step 4. Binding the quilt
- - Lay out your quilt and check the quilt top and backing are even – you may need to measure and trim so that your quilt backing overhang is an even 4-5 cm / about 2 inches all around. You will use this to self bind the quilt.
- - Fold the edge of the backing over to the quilt top edge and then fold the backing over again so it cover the quilt top and folds over to the front of the quilt. Pin around the entire quilt edge. When it comes to the corners you can make a neat mitred corner or square it off. Take this to your sewing machine and machine sew this down using a straight stitch or zigzag stitch. Now you are done – congratulations! Wash and use.
How to make a sleep mask
- 2 x small scraps of fabric 27 x 12 cm / 11 x 5 inches
- 1 x piece of cotton batting 27 x 12 cmÂ / 11 x 5 inches
- Piece of thin elastic 25 cm / 10 inches long
- Sewing machine
- Needle and thread
Step 1:Â Make a template from paper in an oval shape with one straight edge – like the one pictured top left, 13cm long x 10cm wide. Fold your two pieces of fabric in half length-ways and place the straight edge of your template against the folded edge of your fabric, trace around it and cut out. Do the same for your batting.
Step 2:Â Once you have cut out your fabric and batting you can embellish the front piece. Sew on fake eyes with scraps of felt, attach a ribbon, or stamp or embroider a message like â€˜do not disturbâ€™. Then sew each end of the elastic onto the right side of each end of your front fabric piece.
Step 3:Â Layer your 3 pieces, place the piece with the elastic attached face up on your bench, the back piece facing down over this and the batting on the top, pin these pieces together. As the elastic is slightly shorter than the length of your fabric, this may scrunch up, just do your best to pin it evenly around. Then sew all around the outside perimeter, leaving a 5cm gap un-stitched. Trim your seams to 1cm wide.
Step 4:Â Turn your sleep mask right side out through the gap you left and press it flat, be careful not to iron over the elastic. Use your needle and thread to hand sew the gap closed. You are done. Now go and make a few more, they make terrific last minute gifts.
Laura Nelkin is a knitwear and jewelry designer who just finished an e-book of knitted jewelry designs called Adorn. Laura is a compulsive knitter who made her passion her career… and is loving every minute of it. Follow Laura and her exploits on her blog, on twitter and in her Ravelry group.
Eye-Glass Cord by Laura Nelkin
Need a last minute gifting idea? This easy eye glass cord is sure to be appreciated… video tutorials are included for the tricksy beading steps so anyone who knows how to knit can tackle this project and get it done in a night!
- Approx. 20 yards of fingering weight yarn
- Two Size 1 (2.25mm) double-pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge
- Approx. 6 grams of Size 8 glass seed beads
- Dental Floss Threader
- Tapestry needle
- Eyeglass Grips (I got mine here)
- Finished length: 27 inches (69 cm) long
- Skill Level: Easy
- If you want to lengthen or shorten your bracelet or necklace it is easy! There are approx 9 beads used per inch of i-cord, (3 reps of stitch pattern.) So, if you want your finished piece an inch longer add 9 beads, or if you want it shorter, subtract 9 beads.
Thread 225 beads onto yarn with dental floss threader.
(Wondering how to thread on the beads? There is a great video tutorial here)
Cast on 3 sts as follows:
Hold yarn ready to work a long tail cast on with at least a 8â€ tail.
*With rh needle or a crochet hook reach through center of one eyeglass grip grab long end of yarn and pull through, then cast on one st with long tail cast on (2 sts on rh ndl), lift first st over second st; rpt from * two more times. [3 sts on ndl]
Slide sts to other end of ndl.
You will now be working beaded I-cord on these 3 sts as follows:
K1, k1 w/ bead, k1. Slide sts to other end of ndl.
K1 w/ bead, k2. Slide sts to other end of ndl.
K2, k1 w/ bead. Slide sts to other end of ndl.
Rep these 3 rows until all beads have been used.
(Need help with this beaded I-cord? There is a video tutorial here)
Knit one row.
Bind off as follows:
K1, then pull yarn through loop on second eyeglass grip and place onto rh ndl.
Take first st on rh ndl and slip over the second st. [1 st on rh ndl]
Bind off 1 st.
Pull yarn through loop on eyeglass grip again and place onto rh ndl.
Take first st on rh ndl and slip over the second st. [1 st on rh ndl]
Bind off last st.
Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail, pull end through last stitch. Weave in ends. Block if desired.