knitting pattern

Guest post | Eye-glass cord

by contributor on December 19, 2011

in Guest Blogger, knitting+crochet+yarn, Whip Up Tutorials

Laura Nelkin is a knitwear and jewelry designer who just finished an e-book of knitted jewelry designs called Adorn. Laura is a compulsive knitter who made her passion her career… and is loving every minute of it. Follow Laura and her exploits on her blog, on twitter and in her Ravelry group.

Eye-Glass Cord by Laura Nelkin

Need a last minute gifting idea? This easy eye glass cord is sure to be appreciated… video tutorials are included for the tricksy beading steps so anyone who knows how to knit can tackle this project and get it done in a night!

Materials

  • Approx. 20 yards of fingering weight yarn
  • Two Size 1 (2.25mm) double-pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Approx. 6 grams of Size 8 glass seed beads
  • Dental Floss Threader
  • Tapestry needle
  • Eyeglass Grips (I got mine here)

Notes:

  • Finished length: 27 inches (69 cm) long
  • Skill Level: Easy
  • If you want to lengthen or shorten your bracelet or necklace it is easy! There are approx 9 beads used per inch of i-cord, (3 reps of stitch pattern.) So, if you want your finished piece an inch longer add 9 beads, or if you want it shorter, subtract 9 beads.

Set Up:
Thread 225 beads onto yarn with dental floss threader.
(Wondering how to thread on the beads? There is a great video tutorial here)
Cast on 3 sts as follows:
Hold yarn ready to work a long tail cast on with at least a 8” tail.
*With rh needle or a crochet hook reach through center of one eyeglass grip grab long end of yarn and pull through, then cast on one st with long tail cast on (2 sts on rh ndl), lift first st over second st; rpt from * two more times. [3 sts on ndl]

Slide sts to other end of ndl.
You will now be working beaded I-cord on these 3 sts as follows:
K1, k1 w/ bead, k1. Slide sts to other end of ndl.
K1 w/ bead, k2. Slide sts to other end of ndl.
K2, k1 w/ bead. Slide sts to other end of ndl.

Rep these 3 rows until all beads have been used.
(Need help with this beaded I-cord? There is a video tutorial here)
Knit one row.

Bind off as follows:
K1, then pull yarn through loop on second eyeglass grip and place onto rh ndl.
Take first st on rh ndl and slip over the second st. [1 st on rh ndl]
Bind off 1 st.
Pull yarn through loop on eyeglass grip again and place onto rh ndl.
Take first st on rh ndl and slip over the second st. [1 st on rh ndl]
Bind off last st.
Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail, pull end through last stitch. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

{ 1 comment }

Some things to do and see

by kath_red on August 6, 2011

in Features, Link Love

I getting emails with interesting links and also love to trawl through my rss feeds for cool things – so here i give to you some of my finds and some things that landed in my inbox this week.

If you would like to send press releases or submit your own project please send to submit[at]whipup.net.

Tutorials

Other lovelies

{ 2 comments }

The essential knitted sweater for big little ones

by kath_red on June 16, 2011

in knitting+crochet+yarn

For me down south it is sweater time (or jumper as we call em down here). My mum, a great knitter, emailed me to ask for a whole bunch of kids jumper patterns, she has a few grandkiddies (none of them babies anymore) and is itching to knit something useful now that the cold weather is upon us. I personally favour a classic raglan for a really good go-everywhere sweater for kids, and I also love a vest – don’t you. Cardigans can also be really handy too – and a hoodie is kinda cute and useful – so here is the list I sent her – my ultimate essential sweater for kids …

Lino’s Coat by Lili Comme Tout (Ravelry free download) Knit with Bulky / 12 ply – available in french & English.

Classic Raglan Pullover by Jane Richmond ($5.50 at Ravelry) A simple raglan pullover designed to fit comfortably over a layer or under a coat. Knit from the top down, this garment can be tried on along the way and requires no seaming. Jane has a huge range of great designs – The Georgia and Oatmeal pullover are particular favourites.

Wonder Years toddler/child cardigan by Elizabeth Smith ($5 at ravelry). It uses worsted / 10 ply yarn. A seamless raglan cardigan knit from the top-down using worsted weight yarn – sizes 2-10. {pictured above}

Willie by pamela wynne – such a fun design ($6 on ravelry) Made with Bulky / 12 ply. It is a round-yoked cardigan for babies and kids, with a wiener dog design that wraps around the lower body. The body and sleeves are knit separately, then joined in one piece for the yoke. {Pictured above} – more info here. Pamela is Flint knits and the designer of the super popular February Sweater. And I also love this super cute Elephant yoke sweater for kids. How clever is this gal!

Laughing Carrots by Sabine Riefler (available for free at Knitty.com) Knit in Aran / 10 ply. Sabine blogs at Mindful knitting. She has a super cute summer top for older girls (teens) available at Petite purls.

And because I am a sucker for cute – Mini Moustache Sweater by Kasa Amend caught my eye – not just because of the moustache – but the shape of this little top is very sweet. (It is a $3.50 pattern at ravelry). Kasa is also the creator of this very cute short sleeved baby owl sweater {pictured above}.

Twisted Tree Pullover by Sarah Pope is a free pattern knit in DK / 8 ply. It is a a raglan pullover with rolled cuffs, hem, and neckband for an unfussy look. Sarah is also the genius behind the Lovisa Armwarmers.

Fisherman’s Pullover by Veera Välimäki is designed to keep small adventurers warm and happy. It’s knitted seamlessly from the top down. Knit in Bulky / 12 ply (and available for €3.90 EUR at Ravelry) {pictured above}. Veera is a prolific designer and has designed some of my favourite sweater patterns for adults – Twenty Ten Cardigan, Plain and Simple Pullover, Still Light Tunic, and Graystone. Seriously genius!

Pieni luotolainen by Vilma Vuori – the traditional sweater from the Finnish island of Hailuoto converted to a toddler-sized version. (free from ravelry)

Asa by talitha kuomi is made with Super Bulky yarn and is available from Petite Purls website. {Pictured above}

I also really like this Skull Hoodie by Bernat Design Studio. Another fun Hoodie for older boys is this Meep Meep. Robot Hoodie. by Megan Goodacre ($5). Megan has a super cool chart maker to try out too – where you can create and modify any chart you like.

Menemsha by Jennifer Meyers – a sweater for every member of the family. The kind of sweater that becomes your favorite comfortable sweater; the sweater that reminds you of all the good times it’s kept you warm. (free from the designers website)

I love the Seaside Sweater by Pickles. And in fact am in love with many of their designs – including these other kiddie patterns – cosy basket cardigan, and Plain vest.

{ 6 comments }

book: Around the world in knitted socks

by KateG on March 13, 2011

in Books, Features

Around the World in Knitted Socks: 26 Inspired Designs Stephanie van der Linden. 2010 Interweave Press.

If you have been part of the online knitting world in the last few years, you would know that knitted socks are firmly back in favour. There are thousands of patterns for socks, tonnes and tonnes of big brand, boutique and hand dyed sock yarns in all kinds of fibres, and stacks and stacks of books about sock knitting. As with any popular trend, some books will be great, some will be very ho hum, and most will be somewhere in between. Stephanie ven der Linden’s book Around The World In Knitted Socks is an exceptional book.

First published in German, and recently published by Interweave Press, this book is full of patterns like I had never seen before. I am a fairly new knitter, and most of my online resources, eg Ravelry, are sourced from the USA and other English speaking western countries, and most of the patterns for socks that I love are based on a pretty standard model of cuff-down or toe-up, short row heels or heel flaps, a few reliable toe methods, and all kinds of embellishments. I am completely excited to find a sock book that is based on European sock design, and seems to come at the sock design process from a very different direction. Sure, at its most simple, a sock is a tube for keeping feet warm, but it is a joy to see how gussets, toes and heels can be used as an integrated part of the design, instead of necessary shaping in an otherwise decorative sock.

Stephanie ven der Linden takes the reader on a journey abroad, presenting 26 original sock projects, each influenced by design elements particular to different countries and regions, such as travelling and twisted stitches from German Alpine regions, stranded knitting influences from areas such as Latvia, Estonia, and the Netherlands, lace styles inspired by Spain, Austria and Belgium, exquisite patterning from Morocco and Turkey, Scottish Argyle, Irish Aran and high fashion from Italy.

Apart from having my head stretched in the best kind of way with the patterns and design influences, I think that this is a genuinely good book. Each project is very well photographed, and the instructions are clear, and is broken down into cuff, leg, heel, foot, toe and finishing, with clear charts for colourwork and patterned stitch work. Each project is designed for use with a fairly standard sock yarn (Regia), which makes yarn substitution easy. The techniques section at the end of the book is fantastic, and the instructions for Kitchener Stitch has made sense to me like no other instructions ever have. There are photographed instructions on short-row heels, decreases, twisted and travelling stitches, two coloured stranded knitting, Kitchener stitch, knitting with beads, and embellishing.

I have already cast on Nordic Inspiration (Sweden) [the top image and it also graces the book cover], and can’t wait to improve my colourwork, and then would love to make Scent of Lavender (France) [image below], Vacation in the Mountains (Switzerland), Classic Kilim (Turkey) [image below], and Brussels Lace (Belgium).

About the reviewer: Kate is a busy mother of four with many craft projects on the go, including, but not limited to, crochet, knitting, sewing, dyeing, paper making, spinning, felting and bookbinding. Kate has challenges in the areas of finishing things, saying no and craft supplies storage. She also has a very very patient and tolerant husband. She is currently home with sick children and knitting her heart out!

{ 6 comments }

Guest blogger series: Sideways edge knitting pattern

by kath_red on March 8, 2011

in Guest Series 2011, Whip Up Tutorials

Today I have the pleasure of welcoming Lee Meredith to guest blog at Whipup. Lee is a maker of things and doer of stuff.

I live in Portland, Oregon and focus mainly on designing knit accessories, but I also dabble in all kinds of crafts, and write about them all on my Blog Do Stuff! . I also run a website, leethal.net, where you can find all my knit designs, embroidery stitch sets, tutorials, yarn, and more!

Sideways edge cast-on and a free knitting pattern: Cassady

Awhile back, I developed this technique that I’ve been using in a lot of my patterns lately, which I call a sideways edge cast-on. It’s not what you normally think of as a “cast-on” because you’re knitting a whole piece at the same time, any way you want, but you’re leaving new stitches along the side, which you go back to later and knit across, which is why those stitches are essentially cast-on stitches. It’s a way to knit something in 2 directions without ever having to pick up stitches or sew seams. Anyway, I wrote all about the technique here, but it’s kind of hard to grasp just by reading about it, even though it’s very easy to do!

So, I wanted to offer up a free pattern using the cast-on method, as a kind of introduction to show you how simple it really is! Cassady can use any yarn and needles, works up pretty quickly, and uses only garter stitch, a couple of increases, and 4 different decreases. It’s a great pattern for an adventurous beginner knitter, ready to try out some new techniques, practice some new increases+decreases, but keep it small and simple.

Once you try out this kerchief and see how easy the technique is, maybe you’ll want to put it to use with one of my more complex customizable patterns! My Custom Tritops hats and the Betiko shawl, both pictured here, take advantage of the sideways edge stitches to make completely custom sized, any-gauge, super versatile designs that you can knit again and again in all different ways!

Cassady Pattern

Cassady is a great way to show off a nice multi-colored yarn – since it’s worked in two different directions, variegated or self-striping yarns will really make the most of the design. The yarn I used here is some beautiful hand-dyed worsted weight merino wool by Knitted Wit, perfect!

This pattern works for any gauge, so you can choose any weight yarn, and the appropriate needle size to match. Worsted weight and finer will work best, as a bulky yarn will make for a bulky kerchief, not ideal; sock yarns will work wonderfully! There’s no need to do a gauge swatch, unless you want to check if a certain needle size will work well with your yarn – the whole pattern is garter stitch, so do any testing in garter (knit all, flat).

- Use either 1 very long circular needle (at least 32″ but longer is better), or use any shorter circular (16″ is fine) plus a set of straight needles (2 double points would work, or a second circular) of the same size. The whole piece is knit flat, but the circular cord is necessary to hold the extra sideways stitches.
- You also need 1 stitch marker, and a yarn needle to weave in ends.

Abbreviations:
st(s) = stitch(es)
k = knit
kfb = knit into front of stitch, then into back (increases 1 – see here for help)
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (decreases 1 - see here for help)
m1 = lift a strand of yarn between the stitches on the right and left needles, with your left needle, from front to back, and knit into the back loop (increases 1 – see here for help)
p2tog = purl 2 stitches together (decreases 1 – see here for help)
p2tog TBL = purl 2 stitches together through the back loop (decreases 1 – see here for help)
ssk = slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together (decreases 1 - see here for help)
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

Note:
If you’ve never used short rows before, you may find them weird at first and feel like you’re doing something wrong – you’re not! There is no need to wrap stitches or anything like that which normally happens with short rows, but you will just be turning your work before knitting across the entire row. When the pattern says “turn,” do just that. Stop working in that direction, turn your work, and start working back in the other direction. This is how those sideways edge stitches are formed, it’s magical!

If you’re using 2 sets of needles, start with the circular.

Start first strap:
- Cast on 1 (just make a slip knot and place it on your needle).
- Row 1: Kfb (2 sts now).
- Row 2: K all.
- Row 3: K to last 1, kfb.
- Row 4: K all.
- Repeat rows 3-4 until piece measure about 1.5 inches /4cm across.
- Knit all, both sides, until piece measures about 8 inches /20cm long.

Start sideways edge cast-on section (creating new stitches along the side edge of the piece):
- Setup row: Kfb, place marker, k to end.
- WS row: K to marker, pass marker, k1, turn.
- RS row: Kfb, pass marker, k to end.
- Repeat last 2 rows until the section with sideways stitches measures about 14 inches /36cm long, or until it comfortably stretches to about 20 inches /50cm, or until that part reaches around your head.

If you’re using 2 pairs of needles, then start using your separate needles now. *After the following row, pull the end of the circular so that the sideways stitches are all on the circular cord, to avoid the chance of them slipping off the end of the needle.

Ending sideways edge row:
- K to marker, remove marker, k1.*

Start second strap:
- If you’re using 1 long circular needle, at this point you’ll need to pull the end of the needle which is coming out of the sideways stitches (the stitches not being worked) so that all those stitches are on the cord (not the needle points). You’ll use the 2 needle points to continue knitting the other side of the strap, but with the cord in between holding onto all those sideways stitches, which don’t get touched for now.
- Knit all strap stitches (the live stitches that you just knit, not the sideways edge stitches) until strap piece measures about 6.5 inches /17cm, or the same as the other strap up to where it comes in at a diagonal, or longer if you prefer asymmetrical straps.

- Strap point row 1: K to last 2, k2tog.
- Strap point row 2: K all.
- Repeat those 2 rows until decreasing down to 1 stitch.
- Break yarn and thread through stitch.

Start triangular section:
- Slide circular needle into sideways stitches so the point is in the side that you started on (not the side you just finished on), and begin working into those stitches.
- Setup row: K1, [m1, k2] repeat across to end of row (you may end after k2, or k1 depending on how many stitches you had).
- WS row: P2tog, k to last 2, p2tog TBL.
- RS row: Ssk, k to last 2, k2tog.
- Repeat those 2 rows until there are either 2 or 3 stitches remaining.

- If there are 2 stitches, then: Ktog if you’re on the RS row; p2tog if you’re on the WS row.
- If there are 3 stitches, then:
- RS: Ssk, slip that stitch back over to the left-hand needle, pass remaining stitch over ssk’d stitch.
- WS: P2tog, slip that stitch back over to the left-hand needle, pass remaining stitch over p2tog’d stitch.
- Break yarn and pull through the last stitch.

Weave in all your ends, and block as you want to (blocking isn’t especially important with this piece).
Tie it on around your head, or around your neck if you like!

Now, hopefully you have an understanding of how the sideways edge cast-on works and you can take it into your own projects! Happy knitting

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